Public Art: Staroměstské náměstí

  

Lausanne, Switzerland, March, 2015

When I lived in Prague from 2002-04, I rented a room from a vibrant, intelligent and very funny Czech woman named Eva. When I returned to Prague, I went to her apartment hoping to find her. I made three pilgrimages across town, ringing her bell, but sadly, there was never an answer. A woman who lived in the building said she had not seen her for six months. I was worried, but something told me to keep looking. 

I remembered her daughter, Monika lived in Switzerland and ran a small bed and breakfast in Lausanne. I sent an email, and within minutes found out that my ceska babicka was alive and well, living in an apartment near Monika and her family. I was delighted to learn that Monika and her husband now had two small children. I was invited to visit, so off I went a few short days before returning home to the US. 

Eva and her grandson.

Doting babicka.

Les enfants Suisse.

Chillon Castle.

Terezin Concentration Camp

An hour north of Prague lies Terezin, a fortress town infamously known as a former transit site and concentration camp for Jews during World War II. Unlike many Czech villages, Terezin is empty, grey and sad. Many of the buildings are in decay, the windows dark. There seemed to be very few people on the street or shops or restaurants open.  It would be difficult, I suppose to make your life in a town with such a tragic history. 

The town itself functions as museum. Visitors follow small, yellow signs from one site to the next. The most memorable part was the barracks, which housed fifty to sixty people at one time. Because of the cramped living quarters, disease was rampant, treatments and vaccines were rationed and many people died from illnesses that could have been prevented. 

It's shocking to see the reality of how these human beings were treated. An art exhibit at Terezin chronicled the daily life of the people attempting to survive within. Employed officially by the Nazis as draftsmen, these artists worked in secret; drawings were later smuggled out of the camp to reveal the truth and persuade Allied sympathies.

These photos do not do Terezin justice, but offer small glimpse of the experience. 

  

To the Castle!

Prague at Night, January 2015

"A city of alchemists and dreamers, its medieval cobbles once trod by golems, mystics, invading armies... The wind carried the memory of magic, revolution, violins, and the cobbled lanes meandered like creeks. Thugs wore Mozart wigs and pushed chamber music on street corners, and marionettes hung in windows, making the whole city seem like a theater with unseen puppeteers crouched behind velvet.” ― Laini Taylor 

Mala Strana, Prague, December, 2014

Mala Strana, the Lesser Quarter is probably the most photogenic part of Prague. The gateway to this part of the city is the Charles Bridge, which when not cluttered with many tourists (like myself) affords great views of Prague Castle and the Vltava River. 

I spent an early morning between Christmas and New Years taking photos, content to enjoy the details of this beautiful and special place. 

The Charles Bridge.

There are little shrines, like this one, tucked into spots all over Prague.

Prague Castle.

The entire center of the city is paved with cobblestones.

Prague presents so many fetching directions in which to choose from.
The good news is you really can't go wrong!

Prague Christmas Markets, December 2014

Despite having lived in Prague before, I never had the chance to enjoy the Christmas markets in Old Town Square. While you can see in the photos that the emphasis is on food, there are lots of little booths dedicated to selling traditional Czech crafts and Christmas ornaments. 

  

We didn't try these, but they sure looked delicious.

  

So many tempting treats.

Trdlo. A traditional Hungarian cake that is baked over open coals.

His dad is enjoying this, but I think he'd rather be eating Trdlo.

Hawally, Kuwait, 2014

Rob and I signed up for an adventure and we sure got what we were looking for. I falsely assumed that with all my previous travel experience, I'd be well prepared to handle the culture shock. I couldn't have been more wrong and humbled by Kuwait. There was the scorching heat (worsened by a poorly functioning AC in our apartment), the dirt, the trash and the feral cats.

Over time, we began to adapt. By November, it cooled down dramatically. We became regulars at the bakala, or neighborhood convenience store. The strangers in my apartment became friends. We bonded over the hardships we faced and looked out for one another. We played house with little Noah. Friends delivered cookies to our door, shared moonshine, and took care of Suki. A little experience and knowledge of what to do and see made our lives livable again.

I will always be grateful for the kindness and generosity of the many people we met in Kuwait. Insha'Allah, we will meet again!

 

Outside our apartment window.

If you look closely, you can see the Mosque. 

Noah taking a picture of me taking a picture of him.

Noah loves Rob's beard.

To borrow a phrase from my friend Keri, FELINE FRENZY!

There are cats everywhere in Hawally. This one was kind enough to pose for me.

A rare rainbow.